Winter and Kimchi

Winter and Kimchi

“In seed time learn, in harvest teach, in winter enjoy” William Blake, “The Marriage of Heaven and Hell”

On the phone with Mike Hamilton of Shade River Farm. January 7, 2025.

My favorite of Vivaldi’s The Four Seasons concertos is Winter." The piece is bursting with energy and tension. The sound is piercing, biting, even a little bitter. But joy overcomes the menacing tone. He balances these opposing forces and the work becomes triumphant. In a sonnet that accompanies the concerto, Vivaldi uses words like “horrid,” “trembling,” “severe,” “chatter,” and “slip and fall to the ground.” He ends the poem, “This is winter, but it brings joy.”

Winter is to be respected. It's a time for reflection and slowing down. It's about perseverance and death. Over the years I've become a winter convert. I've learned that a little discomfort can be good for you. I've also learned that to enjoy winter, one must prepare. You can't just traipse into it with short cotton socks and a thin peacoat. 

All over Korea, in preparation for winter, the tradition of Kimjang takes place. Families, friends, and neighbors prepare and share large amounts of kimchi. Kimjang happens in November when the napa cabbage is ripe and the cool temperatures are ideal for slow fermentation required for well preserved and delicious kimchi. This communal act ensures that everyone is provided for. As my uncle recalled, during the lean years after the Korean war, often kimchi was the only vegetable on the table. Traditionally, a family’s kimchi recipe is passed down from mother to daughter-in-law. There is actually a term for the best cut of kimchi. It’s called “mother-in-law kimchi.” Every family’s recipe is different. 

When I decided to make kimchi for Hei Hei, I knew I had to visit my Imo, my mom’s younger sister, who everyone agrees is the best cook in our family. Imo started helping to make kimchi when she was a child growing up in Korea. She told me recently that she’s only bought kimchi from the store twice in her entire life. Imo has a special Samsung kimchi refrigerator in the basement. Her kimchi is the best I’ve ever eaten. 

This past October, I travelled to Imo’s home in northern Virginia to learn how to make kimchi her way. It had been years since I last visited. Growing up Imo’s house was full of family- aunts, uncles, cousins, grandparents and there was always sports on the TV and always lots and lots of very good Korean food. Imo and my uncle are retired, the house is quiet now- my uncle plays long games of Go online, even the volume of the ALCS game (Guardians vs Yankees) was turned down to a whisper. But on the third night of our visit Imo prepared a big family meal and my sister and her family, our uncles, aunts, and cousins filled the house again. 

Keeping my family's kimchi recipe alive was not something I imagined would happen. I don't think I would have thought to do it if it wasn't for Hei Hei. It's one of the many examples of how starting Hei Hei has surprised me and led me to good things. 

Our kimchi is the embodiment of all the amazing things Hei Hei has taught and brought to us, and I’m extremely proud of it. It is currently undergoing a slow cold ferment and will be ready to share very soon. 

LUNAR NEW YEAR POP-UP AT JACKIE O’S TAPROOM!

In other news, we’re very excited to announce a Hei Hei Lunar New Year celebration at Jackie O’s Taproom on Wednesday, January 29, 5pm-close

The menu is inspired by anju, which is the Korean term for food to eat with drinks, Korean tavern food. There will be Hei Hei dumplings, Korean fried chicken wings, kimchi pancakes (gluten free and vegan), and a special Jackie O’s drink menu to ring in the new year! 

Kurt is working on a K-pop mix. More info to come. Be on the lookout for a special announcement soon! 

Until then, your friend,

Irene

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